It’s Sunday afternoon at the Ludy’s, and I’m exhausted from a week of lengthy phone calls, insane e-mails and making my column deadline. It’s “Ludy Lounge” time, so I’m in my favorite lounge chair overlooking the garden. I’ve made myself a dry martini, am in my favorite Sunday loungewear (a sassy pair of velour Juicy Couture tracksuit pants and white tank), ready to relax and read my new Bon Appetit. Peaceful, right? Wrong. The neighbors are making so much damn noise, I’m about ready to go over there and plant my own flower garden right on their heads. Honesty, I get so irritated by unnecessary noise, especially when I’m trying to relax!
Sorry, I’ll pull it back to the purpose of the story…
I look down at the front cover to see what’s in this month’s issue; it’s America’s top 5 restaurant cities. Listed are New York, San Francisco, Chicago, Las Vegas and New Orleans. I think to myself, that’s odd. Why wouldn’t Los Angeles be listed? So many people in this town rarely dine at home; they usually head to their favorite sushi bar after final edits on their script or after closing the million dollar picture deal. Clearly, with that many people dining out and so many restaurants to choose from, why wouldn’t LA make the list?
I’ve lived here 12 years, and in that time, I’ve discovered many things about the LA lifestyle. People migrate here every year looking to fulfill their dreams; some are looking for stardom, some are looking to make the next box office blockbuster, others arrive to become A-list celebrity talent agents. Sometimes the dream reaches fruition and sometimes it gets shot to hell.
Because of this “transient” lifestyle, loyalty to anything, be it a restaurant, coffee shop or lover is as difficult to find as finding Courtney Love sober. Oh sure, a handful of people make it, and have the time and means to develop the “restaurant loyalty” factor. The wanna-be’s trying to fulfill their dreams rarely have the opportunity to dine every Monday night at Morton’s, or lunch at the Polo Lounge. They are grabbing a coffee at Starbucks and existing on caffeine and cigarettes while they write the next “Sideways” or “Million Dollar Baby”.
The tourism industry here helps the restaurant economy stay afloat and keep it in mainstream pop culture. Nate ‘n Al’s on Beverly Drive, Musso and Frank’s on Hollywood Blvd., and The Ivy on Robertson Blvd. are frequented by tourists and locals alike; however these places were established during “The Golden Age of Hollywood”, and didn’t have to find their place in a “disposable” society, like most restaurants do today. “Foodies” weren’t necessary to make these places publicly known. They were known for their celebrity clientele which was the real draw; not necessarily the food.
Industry insiders today gather at the latest, trendiest hotspot, which then becomes the “it” spot for a month or so, but since you can’t have Lindsey Lohan and Ashlee Simpson in the same place, a new “it” spot is named, and the former is forgotten. You see, food isn’t the focus of gatherings in LA as it is in these other cities; it’s used as a tool or prop. Here it’s all about the next deal or project, or the hot new workout place; not what’s being served for Sunday dinner.
People here eat to exist, not exist to eat, such as in New York and Chicago, where food is so much a part of the history and local culture. Food and traditional dishes are thought of as part of the family heritage, and are often the focus of the gathering. People are true “foodies” in these cities. They debate for hours which is better; New York style pizza or Chicago deep-dish pizza; a Chicago dog or a Nathan’s Famous Hot Dog; New York Style Cheesecake vs. a traditional cheesecake. (Frankly, I prefer a dry martini over any of them, but if I had to chose, would go with Chicago deep-dish pizza, Nathan’s and New York Style Cheesecake!)
Unlike New York and Chicago where closely knit neighborhoods are the norm and there’s a sense of community, Los Angeles is a large, sprawling metropolis that at times, can feel very lonely. It doesn’t necessarily promote a feeling of community like other cities; quite the opposite. Individuality is key here; thus the lack of traditions and loyalty. Concerning one’s self with whether or not this years grape harvest will bring the best pinot, is not a priority.
LA is many things to many people, but being able to label itself a “foodie” town, and boast of having the best restaurants in the country, may not be one of them. It’s a shame really, as Los Angeles is so rich in diverse culture and authentic cuisine; it could really shine as THE premiere “foodie” hotspot.
Sometimes I feel as though I’m the only true ‘foodie” left in the city.